Those slots slip into two welded bars on each side of the batter, which makes the width of the racks bed smaller (~ 148 mm). The case of the battery has these little slots in the side (tried to get it shown in the photos, but came out poorly). The i busted out my calipers and got ~ 155mm x 73mm for width and height (cant find my bloody tape measure for the length). I am now thinking ill try the refurbishment if i can, else just do a generic pack. However i dont think theyd fit in the somewhat weird rack well and id have have to just crudely jam it on there somehow. It seems like they'd just wire easily into the controller (assuming it doesn't expect something weird and proprietary from their BMS). There is also the option of using one of these bottle batties like or a generic rack mounted one. However i'd have to find a hazmat shipper in my area to get access to them. Looking more at the alibaba costs for the individual cells, they are more expensive than i thought (at least if you get the high quality/consistent panasonic ones), which puts it more in line with the refurbishment costs ive seen a few places. Naw its this bike with a horizontal rack mounted 36v battery (so likely 10 groups of 6). The results will tell whether the cropus are still usable, and if you have any options. They will tell you to carefully open your pack, determine how the 13 series groups are arranged in it, and to report the voltage on all 13 groups. If you want more direction ask the folks at endless-sphere forums. That's why you have to be very careful if you open it. You can't tell what's in those cells since the BMS has shut down the pack. That whole array could be dead, or it might have as much as 40 volts in it. If you open the pack, you'll see the cell array, the BMS card, and a whole bunch of wires. Your 48V battery will be made up of 13 groups of cells in parallel. They isolate the terminals of the internal cells from the outside world when they detect a voltage problem. you may not have come across the Battery Management (BMS) cards. With your 2 cell and 4 cell battery projects. They have little spot welders for batteries. as it's hard to do w/o getting them too hot. If the cells are easily removed from that case, you might entertain that alternative, I guess you cannot support the seat without the battery in place? If you could, it would be easiest to buy a downtube battery and clamp it to the frame. Is it this battery? Being Held by the owner of this website. That bike shows up at the grocery 2 or 3 times a week where the guy who built his own battery does not park. You will see on my bike left, I wrapped a generic luna battery in aluminum angle, some plastic insulation, a PVC sheet for rain resistance, than hung it on front of my bicycle. I've seen one MTB conversion at the local grocery, the guy said he had soldered his battery together from cells he bought on ali. People say a lot of nice things about grin technology in Ca. I bought two **** batteries from amazon & ebay, so the one generic battery vendor I can recommend from experience in USA is luna. America, the best I think you can do is buy a new battery from a reputable vendor and adapt the connectors and wiring. If you live in ***** you might be able to find the source of genuine new cells. Plus the new cells you can buy, there aren't a lot of reputable vendors. My welding gloves wouldn't hold that flame off I don't believe. Flame about a foot in diameter if watching cell phone batteries on television is any indication. I'm pretty handy, but I'm not bold enough to weld together bottles that if you penetrate the metal with too much energy, bursts into flame. Getting it to hold together under the stress of potholes is another level of skill. One or two guys have repacked the battery. You have to drive your battery to the center, you are not allowed to ship it.Īdjacent to that thread is one about batteries in general. Im generally technically competent, and have done a ton of low voltage projects, but this would be my first thing of this high power motor class (and im kinda excited to learn about it). For what it's worth it was a 36v 12ah originally. So i just wanted a sanity check for you fine knowledgeable folk, would it be reasonable to open up the battery, desolder all the cells, and replace them with newer (potentially higher capacity) versions of 18650. but it seems like all i really need is to replace the cells, the whole rest of the battery (should) be good. Looking for replacement batteries online, and they seem to go for at least 400$! (i assume this is in part because its a discontinued model). namely because the battery is dead and the charger is missing (the guy gave me his purchase agreement from REI, and the battery was at 10 volts, 4 years ago, so i imagine super dead). It's in excellent shape, and has never been ridden. So, sorta on a whim i swiped up a 250$ 2015 e3 zuma from facebook marketplace.
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